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Walkabout An Arts Tour Through Sydney AmericanStyle Magazine, Fall 2003 There is a danger in visiting Australia’s largest and best-known city. Once you’ve been to Sydney, chances are you’ll have to come back. Just as soon as you complete the 14-hour flight from California, flying in over the breathtaking crystal-blue Australian coastline and the neatly-ordered avenues below, you’ll see what others have raved about. “Sydney is Australia’s most beautiful city,” says Denis Savill, owner of Savill Galleries and one of the town’s top art experts. “Artists continue to use our beaches and harbors as a source of inspiration.” Sydney’s beauty is a combination of natural wonders and the town’s response and reverence to them. The aqua-marine hues of the sea hug the city, which is built around the water, while the streets are dotted with sub-tropical greenery and the red roofs of quaint village-style homes. As the capital of New South Wales, the town has an energetic and optimistic feel to it. Its modern architecture and exquisite gardens make it a pleasure to visit. Dozens of distinctive neighborhoods, from the seaside bohemian village of Balmain to the more conservative and distinguished Northern Beaches, provide their own unique experiences and lifestyles. The city’s four million residents are a mix of all heritages, resulting in a rich, multi-cultural view of life. One in four Sydneysiders was born in another country, and this international influence has taken the town’s eateries from bland English fare to top world cuisine. The Australians are friendly and helpful, but don’t let that easy-going spirit fool you. This town holds its own as a sophisticated cultural center. While Melbourne is often called the “arts capital of Australia”, Sydney begs to differ. “Sydney is an exuberant place with an outdoor pulse that celebrates arts in many ways,” says Benedict Pownall of Sotheby’s, which hold auctions in both cities. International artists are drawn here for a climate where the sun shines nearly 240 days a year and the temperature barely dips below 50 degrees. In a country of only 18 million, Australian takes pride in its own, and local artists are household names. Perhaps that is why Sydney has so much to offer art-lovers. Most galleries are within walking distance of each other, and best way to explore this town is by foot. For an overview of Australian arts, the first place to stop is the Gallery of New South Wales. This well-respected gallery is over 120 years old and considered one of the best in the country. Their comprehensive collections include Aboriginal and Australian works, as well as Contemporary, Asian and Western art. Best of all, admission is free. Another must-see is the Museum of Contemporary Arts, which is located in the heart of the city near Circular Quay, where the famous Sydney Opera House sits. From here, take a short walk along the harbor to The Rocks, an historic area just under the Harbor Bridge. While some of the art houses here are quite touristy, others are real finds. Two such understated galleries are Australian Image and Telopea Gallery, which are both run by the Society of Arts & Crafts of New South Wales, a century-old non-profit group made up of local artisans. Artists in all media, including ceramics, glass, porcelain, basketry, jewelry and enamels, display their work at the two galleries. The collection is constantly changing, so unique pieces can be found on each visit. Because the galleries are non-profit, the prices for these quality pieces are quite reasonable, and most do not include the 10% GST (goods and services tax) that is included in most Australian purchases. The Object Gallery at the Customs House near Circular Quay offers 3-D craft work by artisans such as renowned glass artist Keith Rowe. “My desire is to create balanced forms with an exciting decorative content,” says Rowe, who also offers classes at his studio in the Blue Mountains (see sidebar). “I'm primarily a glass blower that enjoys sand and kiln castings,” he says. Ken Duncan is perhaps Australia’s best-loved photographer. After several years of hardship and scraping to get by, Duncan has achieved his dream of capturing the diverse Australian landscape on film. His panoramic photography, displayed at his gallery in The Rocks, offers a beautiful glimpse of this vast country and its beauty. Where the Arts Come Together Most of the Sydney arts scene is clustered in the “gallery belt”, an area known for its art houses, studios and galleries. The “belt” runs through the inner-city neighborhoods of Paddington, Woollahra, and Surrey Hills, which are just a 15-minute ride from the city center. Dennis Savill’s gallery in Paddintong specializes in works by leading Australian painters such as Sir Sidney Nolan, Arthur Boyd and Brett Whiteley. “These artists are keenly sought after by overseas collectors,” says Savill. “We stage major survey exhibitions by prominent painters, as well as up-and-coming artists like Robert Dickerson and Gary Shead.” Another popular new artist is Jeffrey Smart, says Savill. “His name is on every collector’s lips!”
From Paddington, you can walk to the gentile neighborhoods of Woollahra, which have a romantic feel of yesteryear. Art dealer Rex Irwin has an impressive two-story gallery on Woollahra’s Queen Street. Sculptures, ceramics, paintings and drawings may be viewed by appointment, as well as in the gallery. The large stockroom offers such works as Gywn Hanssen Pigott’s ceramics, paintings by Chinese-born artist Graham Kuo and the works of Henri Matisse. Sotheby’s in Sydney has found a home on Queen Street as well. The auction house, which holds three major auctions a year in Australia, takes pride in its Aboriginal art offerings. “There is something spiritual about this art,” says Sotheby’s Benedict Pownall. “Works by Aboriginal artists Rover Thomas, Johnny Warangkula and Clifford Possum receive a great reception in New York and Los Angeles.” In addition, Sotheby’s Australia has uncovered numerous Victorian pieces. “Many priceless treasures brought from Britain 200 years ago are now starting to surface,” says Pownall. The Dickerson Gallery on Queen exhibits works of young, mid-career, and senior Australian artists. It’s just one of the dozens of small galleries you’ll find wandering through Woolahra and into Surry Hills. Heading into the center Sydney’s Central Business District is a compact, face-paced area. The streets are filled with businessmen rushing to work, buses moving the masses, and lovely flowers and gardens tossed in here and there for good measure. You’ll also find several nice museums and galleries downtown, so don’t miss this part of Sydney. Maker’s Mark, which opened in 2001 in Sydney’s historic Trust building, carries distinctive three-dimensional works by top Australian craftsmen like glass artists Holly Grace and Brian Hirst. Grace, a native of Western Australia, has a current series called “Water forms” that has been well-received. “My work is inspired by nature,” Grace says, “in the underlying structure and designs that are found in nature-created objects.” Hirst’s vibrant “Precious Vessels” exhibit of contemporary collectable glass is spectacular. “All of these masterpieces are exclusive to Maker’s Mark,” says Client Service Manager Diana Morrison. The various works, including hand-crafted jewelry, sculpture, and ceramics, have been well-received by international collectors, she says. Located in the heart of the business district, Quadrivium’s eye-catching galleries are a piece of art themselves. According to manager Anna Grigson, Quadrivium (which is a Latin word meaning “where four ways meet”) has a strong commitment to the continuous promotion of the Australian studio art movement. The gallery aims to help international collectors learn more about Australian art by providing photographs, artist biographers and other information. The studio specializes in glasswork, ceramics and object design, and has an impressive array of contemporary Aboriginal and Asian Art. You could spend weeks in Sydney, and still not get around to visiting all of the city’s artistic offerings. But that’s not so bad, because it gives you an excuse for another visit. Like other beautiful things, Sydney can be addictive. Most likely you’ll be back for more. Reach Sydney in Style Australia is proud of its Aboriginal arts. Qantas Airways celebrates that passion with the world’s two largest Aboriginal paintings. In 1994, the airline commissioned Balarinji Designs in Adelaide, South Australia, to create “Wunala Dreaming” on a Boeing 747. The design depicts the story of journeys by spirit ancestors across the Australian Landscape. A second piece of aircraft artwork, “Nalanji Dreaming”, which means “our place”, was commissioned in 1995. It depicts an Aboriginal rainforest theme. Qantas has daily flights to Sydney from Los Angeles, New York and San Francisco, and code-shares with partners out of 14 other cities. Get this! The town’s “Artfind Guide” is an invaluable resource when it comes to planning an arts tour of Sydney. This helpful pamphlet lists local galleries and pinpoints them on an easy-to-read map. The guide is available online at http://www.artfind.com.au/, or you can pick one up at local galleries. Getting around Parking in Sydney is a nightmare, and it’s much easier to take use the city’s “transport” system when you tire of exploring on foot. A weekly bus “Travelpass” is a bargain at around $12 and is good for all buses and ferries. Day Trips into the Blue Mountains |