|
|
|
|
Summer in Stockholm: Sweden’s Treasure by the Sea By Janna Graber The morning air is crisp and cool, but that doesn’t seem to bother Orit Feldman-Dahlgren, who is wearing sandals and a short-sleeved shirt. “It’s summer now,” the Stockholm native says with a huge smile on her face. “I always wear sandals in summer, no matter what.” Summer in Sweden, it seems, is as much an attitude as it is a date on the calendar. After long months of cold weather and short hours of sunlight, the people here are determined to relish every minute of the warm season. The sun hardly sets during summer. It’s a truly awesome experience to get up at 3 a.m., and watch the eerie crystal-blue sky. One of the best places to enjoy the Swedish summer is in Stockholm, the capital city. When May rolls around, the city seems to come alive. Hundreds of bikes fill the city bike paths, as businessmen and women trek to work. Sailboats fill the city’s clean waterways, fishermen cast their lines from the piers, and children swim in the sea canals. The city of 1.8 million people is sometimes called the “Venice of the north.” Stockholm is built on 14 islands that border the edge of a 24,000-island archipelago. Bridges (all 52 of them) crisscross the orderly city, where modern architecture is built alongside renaissance history. Stockholm is safe and clean, and you won’t need a car to make the most of it. A well-organized subway (called the ‘T’) and an excellent bus system make it quick and inexpensive to get around.
Founded more than seven centuries ago, Stockholm has a rich and varied past. You can see remnants of that rich history in The Old Town, called Gamla Stan, located in the heart of the city. Situated on its own tiny island, the area offers a great walk into the past. Many of the colorful coral, peach and yellow buildings date back to the 13th century. You can reach the Old Town by ferry, subway, or simply walking over a bridge. Take your time wandering the narrow cobble stone streets, where tiny shops are adorned with hanging baskets of flowers. Here you’ll find antique bargains, as well as cozy cafés and restaurants. For the best shopping, head off the main streets and wander up and down the smaller alleys. If you’d like to stop for a snack or cup of coffee in Old Town, try the Kafekoppen on Störtorget 20. If the weather is nice, you can eat outside in the small town square. For a substantial meal, stop next door at the Kaffestuga for a bowl of their delicious homemade soups. With the narrow streets, tiny town squares and the area’s special lighting, you’ll feel like you’ve stepped back in time. But Sweden is by no means stuck in the past. This is a nation that is hooked on technology. Cellular
phones are everywhere; and there
“A lot of our strength is in the way we preserve our traditions while finding new ways to renew our lifestyle,” says Orit, as we walk past a centuries-old church that is located right next to a modern office building. “You have to know your history, and then try not to repeat it,” she says. You can see part of that history at the Royal Palace, which is located at the north end of Gamla Stan. The Swedish Royal family makes their home here, and the palace is said to be the biggest in Europe. It is open daily for tours. Across the canal from the palace, you’ll find the Opera House, and the most prestigious restaurant in Sweden, the Operakällaren. Nearby, is the Kungsträdgården, the King’s Royal Garden. It’s a good place to take a stroll or simply people watch. Stockholm has more museums than you’ll ever be able to take in on one visit. The ones you shouldn’t miss include the incredible Vasa Museum and the Nordic Museum (Nordiska Museet). These two sit side by side, so you can make an afternoon of it. The Vasa is a true national treasure. In 1628, the Vasa, a warship that was the pride of the Swedish navy, sailed on her maiden voyage – and immediately sank in the harbor. The great ship was raised in 1961, and then lovingly preserved. Over ten million visitors have seen the impressive warship. If you prefer spending your time outdoors, you’re in luck. Most Swedes, regardless of where they live, have a fondness for nature. That is apparent even in Stockholm. The city claims to have the perfect combination of nature and civilization, boasting of “1/3 water, 1/3 city, and 1/3 green area.” There are dozens of parks and gardens to explore, the most unique being the island of Djurgården, a royal park near the center of the city. Skansen, the most popular attraction in Stockholm, is located here. Skansen is a living outdoor museum of Swedish rural life.
Over 200 farm buildings, shops and
If you’d like to venture further out of the city, take a boat or ferry from downtown into the archipelago. You can explore the coastline of tiny islands, or even stop at a small country inn for a bite to eat. A trip to the island of Sandhamn makes a great daylong adventure. In the winter, the seawater freezes so thick that you can ice-skate clear out into the archipelago. Swedish cuisine has taken on more of an international flair over the years, but you’ll still find “husmanskost”, which means “good down-home cooking” at restaurants all over town. For a true Swedish experience, try a smorgasbord. A smorgasbord is centered on pickled sill, which is eaten with new potatoes, sour cream and chives. But there are always more dishes than you’ll be able to eat. Coffee is the most-treasured drink in Sweden. Behind the Finns, the Swedes consume the most coffee in the world. The typical Swedish day is filled with “fika” – which are coffee breaks with a snack. “Fika is a religion,” laughs Orit. “We have fika before we start work, fika in the mid-morning, then after lunch and after dinner. It’s always a good time for fika.” Perhaps this is why there are so many café’s in this city. During the summer, you’ll find over 800 restaurants and café’s offering outside sitting, where you’ll be able to soak up that much-treasured sunshine and people-watch while enjoying your coffee. Tipping is appreciated, but not expected here as wait persons are on staff.
Everything you buy in Sweden includes a 25 percent tax, which is already figured in the sales price. While you’re out shopping, you’re likely to notice Sweden’s infatuation with minimalism. There is a Swedish word, “lagom”, which means “just right -- not too much and not too little”. That philosophy seems to apply to everything, from how you cook a steak to Swedish fashion, design and architecture. “Our design is very minimalist and functionalist,” Orit explains. “Look at what you need and then remove what you don’t. When there is nothing left to remove, you have achieved Swedish design.” The stereotypical Swede is quiet and reserved, but that has changed in the last ten years, especially in Stockholm, says resident Eric Lundgren. “This new generation is cosmopolitan and international,” he says. “They travel internationally and are open and friendly.” Because all Swedes begin learning English at the age of seven, most are able to switch seamlessly between the two languages. But it’s always appreciated if you can offer a friendly “tack” (thank you) in return. END IF YOU GO: For information on Sweden: http://www.visit-sweden.com For information on Stockholm: Stockholm Information Service Or When to go: Sweden has four distinct seasons – each has their own beauty. Winter brings short hours of sunlight and temperatures from 2 to -7 C. Spring comes in April, with temperatures between 5 and 15 C. Summer is gorgeous, reaching temperatures of 25 C. (Still, bring a jacket as the weather can play tricks.) In Fall, the sunlight hours grow shorter again, and the days cooler in the evening, between 5 and 18C. Sweden is heavily forested, and the changing of the leaves is spectacular. Sidebar #2: Do you have Swedish roots? Many Americans have a Swedish heritage. Sweden has excellent records and resources for those who would like to trace their family history. To get started in your search, check out these helpful websites: http://www.augustana.edu/administration/SWENSON |
Your
best bet is the Stockholm Card, which gives you 24 hour access to the public
transportation system (including the ferries), as well as entrance to almost all
of the city’s attractions. Simply buy a card for each day you’ll be in
Stockholm, and then explore the city at your own pace and route. I’ve found that
the best way to enjoy the city is to explore on foot. 
are
several internet cafés around town. With top-notch medicine, technology and
scientific research taking place in Stockholm everyday, you’re sure to discover
things you’ve never seen before.
homes
have been brought to the 75-acre park to be preserved amid the island’s nature
and flowers. Swedes in period costumes help visitors experience the Sweden of
yesterday. If you’re lucky, you’ll meet Ethel Kling, a Skansen employee who has
worked at the park for more than 25 years. In period costume, Ethel happily
explains Sweden’s past, offering true, heartfelt stories of her own childhood in
the Swedish countryside. It’s worth a visit to Skansen just to meet this gentle
woman. 
If
you’re into shopping, then you’ll want to head to the “newer” part of town.
Drottninggatan is a blocks-long pedestrian mall lined with every kind of
possible shop. And several malls line the sides of Hamngatan. The most popular
store on the street seemed to be the H&K, a favorite affordable clothing store
among most Europeans.