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EnCompass Magazine: Feature Article, September/October
2002
Oasis in the Desert
Lake Powell is a playground for houseboating and other water sports. Best
of all, it's in Colorado's backyard.
by Janna Graber
It's almost 10
p.m. in the red-walled canyons of Lake Powell. The desert air is still warm,
almost hot, and all is silent except for the occasional splash of jumping fish.
From the roof of our rented houseboat, which is anchored in a secluded cove near
Good Hope Bay, I watch as thousands of stars cover the clear night sky, their
twinkling lights reflecting in the deep lake waters.
Such peaceful evenings are worth remembering. Here in this remote corner of the
world, the worries of daily life are left far behind. Perhaps that is one of the
reasons why so many visitors flock to Lake Powell each year.
As the second largest man-made lake in the country, Lake Powell stretches its
fingers over 180 miles from northern Arizona into southern Utah, and is part of
the Colorado River in the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. The lake was
named for Civil War veteran Major John Powell, who explored the region in 1869.
But it wasn't until 1966, when the Glen Canyon Dam was completed, that the lake
came into its own.
It took almost 17 years for Lake Powell to reach "fill" capacity and a depth of
500 feet. Since then, it has become a major destination for houseboating and
other water sports. The lake covers over 90 canyons and has almost 2,000 miles
of shoreline—more than the entire western coast of the United States. Best of
all, it is right in Colorado's backyard.
My family and I decide to make the eight-hour drive from Denver to Lake Powell
in one day. We overnight in Ticaboo, the town nearest the lake, and then head to
the lake the next morning.
We pick up our rented 52-foot houseboat at Bullfrog Marina, which is the closest
marina to Colorado. Motorboats, jet skis and houseboats of all sizes and price
ranges are available for rental here. Since our houseboat sleeps 12, we've asked
several other family members to join us.
"Houseboating is a great option for families who want to vacation together,"
says Dan Cole, General Manager of Water Operations. "Many families come down
here year after year together."
Our boat includes a mini-kitchen, two restrooms with lake-water showers, four
tiny bedrooms and a nice living room. The kids are thrilled to see the large
slide that runs from the roof of the boat to the water, and I like the deck
chairs under the shade on top of the roof.
We get a quick tour of the boat from one of the resort employees. He shows us
the power systems (generator and propane), and explains the cooling system.
Later, when we can't get the cooling system to work in the 100-degree heat or
reach the marina via radio for assistance, we wish we had paid more attention to
this part of the tour. Thankfully, there is a good manual onboard for those
(like us) who didn't ask the right questions in the first place.
It is our first houseboating experience, and we're surprised to find that the
houseboat feels like a big RV built for the water. There is a bit of a learning
curve in handling it, but we soon catch on.
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Houseboating on Lake Powell provides both relaxation and recreation;
children enjoy a break from the water and sun. Photo: Janna Graber. |
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"Houseboating is not really for those who want a luxury experience," says Dan
as we finish our tour. "We don't put a mint on your pillow," he jokes.
Houseboating on Lake Powell is best for those who like exploring remote
locations, who enjoy rugged but gorgeous scenery and who like a bit of
adventure.
Although winters can be cold at the lake, it's open year-round. Summers can be
extremely hot. "The best time to visit Lake Powell is in the fall," Dan says.
"The crowds are gone by then, it's cool enough to hike and explore, but the
water is still warm."
Veteran visitors to Lake Powell offer a wealth of advice to first-time boaters.
"Be sure to buy all your supplies before getting on the lake," says one regular
visitor from Arvada. "There is only one little store at the marina, and you
can't make a quick trip back if you've forgotten something!"
Keeping food supplies cool is not easy. Terry Cartrite, who has vacationed at
Powell for the last 16 years, takes plenty of ice onboard. "The refrigerators
sometimes have a hard time keeping up in the heat," he says. "We take fresh
items that need cooling for the beginning of the week, then rely on canned foods
by the end of the trip."
Terry also stresses the importance of having a second motorboat or jet ski along
with the houseboat. "The second boat adds a degree of safety," he says, "in case
the houseboat breaks down, or you need to go back to the marina for something."
Our houseboat travels at about 10 miles per hour, so we've decided to pull two
extra motorboats behind it. The additional craft will allow our group of 10 to
explore the canyons in a quicker fashion, as well as provide some fun
waterskiing.
Terry offers one more insider tip. "Mice might try to join the party by climbing
up the ropes when you anchor," he says. The solution to avoiding these uninvited
guests? "Take a paper plate, cut a hole in the middle, and slip it over the
anchor rope so they can't get past." This last tip is worth gold, I decide.
After the boat is loaded, it's time to set out. "Any suggestions on where to
go?" my husband asks Dan, who is still standing on the marina wharf.
"It doesn't matter where you go," Dan laughs, "The whole lake is beautiful!" Dan
is right. Red, white and yellow layers of rock line the sheer canyon walls,
displaying the earth's ancient age in a dramatic, overwhelming way. The water is
so clear that I can see way down.
The region is a fisherman's paradise. The Escalante and San Juan Rivers feed
into the lake and both are popular fishing areas for large- and small-mouth
bass, crappie, catfish, carp and striped bass.
Hikers have an unending wilderness to explore at Powell. In arid weather, hikers
can explore hundreds of dry riverbeds into the canyons. Wildlife abounds,
including wild donkeys, many birds and even coyotes. When it rains, hundreds of
waterfalls plunge over the rocks.
Our boat heads out toward Good Hope Bay, and four hours later, we pull into a
deserted cove. It has a sandy (albeit muddy) beach where we can safely anchor.
We'll spend the next few days anchored here, taking the boats out to explore,
hike, water-ski and tube. We cook delicious dinners on the barbecue on the back
deck, and spend hours reading and playing games.
That, I eventually decide, is perhaps the best thing about Lake Powell. You can
be as active or as relaxed as you wish, and design the vacation of your dreams.
But my favorite part of the day comes each night at dusk, when we head up to the
houseboat roof, pull out the chairs or lie on cushions to stare up into the
night sky. There are no city lights to impede the stars here, and as the skies
darken, nature's best show soon begins.
Janna Graber is a Colorado-based freelance journalist.
BEFORE YOU
GO
Getting there: Bullfrog Marina is a 480-mile drive from Denver. Call or
visit your nearest AAA office for driving directions and maps.
What to bring: Bring all food, drinks and medications with you to the
lake. Ice and extra gasoline (a must if you want to head to remote regions of
the lake) can be purchased at the marina. There are a few other marinas at
different points in the lake. Bring bedding (sheets, sleeping bags and towels),
hats, sunscreen and bug spray.
Safety concerns: All children and non-swimmers should wear lifejackets
(available onboard) while boating.
Additional fees: There is a $10 "Park Pass" fee per vehicle.
Special offer for AAA members: 25 percent discount on lodging and
houseboats at Lake Powell from September 9 through December 31, 2002.
More information on Lake Powell: contact
AAA Travel, or see
www.visitlakepowell.com.
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