California’s Island Getaway:
Enchanted Coronado
By Janna L. Graber
I’ll admit it. There are times
when I want to escape life’s daily grind by flying off to a relaxing tropical
island. Realistically, though, that isn’t always possible. Fortunately, I don’t
have to spend a fortune to find places that come close to fulfilling my vacation
fantasy. The “island” of Coronado is one such option. Located just two miles off
the southern California coast, Coronado is a great option for a quick island
getaway.
Just across the bay from
downtown San Diego, the island is a well-kept secret -- and I'm glad. The quiet
seaside community is uncrowded and clean. The population of 28,000 residents
includes 9,000 military personnel, so the culture is a cozy marriage of military
and tourism. Parts of the island are off-limits to non-military personnel and
you have to drive past training grounds to get to some of the beaches. Still, it
makes for a unique angle to the typical beachside vacation.
As far as islands go, Coronado
isn't really the genuine thing – anymore. At one time, Coronado had two parts:
North and South Island. While North Island was set off on its own, South Island
was connected to the mainland by the Silver Strand, a tiny strip of land that
reaches to the south end of San Diego Bay, where the city of Imperial Beach is
located.
When the Navy and Army took
over North Island prior to WWII, this area was filled in to make Coronado one
piece of land. So in truth, the island is now a peninsula. But that’s no matter.
To folks who have lived in the area for years, Coronado is still “Coronado
Island”, and an island village mentality still exists in the seaside community.
Surrounded by water on three
sides, Coronado offers many of the benefits of a tropical island -- miles of
white sand beaches, waving palm trees, a relaxed atmosphere, and upscale hotels
-- without all the hassle of getting there. It's just twenty minutes from San
Diego's airport. This means you can enjoy all the benefits of San Diego -- the
great Mexican restaurants in San Diego’s Old Town and attractions like Sea World
-- and then escape over the San Diego-Coronado Bridge to the quiet atmosphere on
Coronado. If you feel like traveling the open seas, you can also reach Coronado
by ferry or water taxi.
Although the island's tourism
industry has grown slowly over the years (it's now the second largest industry
on the island after the military), the seaside village really got its start over
a hundred years ago with the building of Hotel Del Coronado.
Affectionately called "the Del" by locals, the classic
hotel is a must-see. Walking into the 112-year-old historic resort is like
stepping back into time. Royalty and numerous celebrities, like Marilyn Monroe
and Charles Lindbergh, have called the hotel their home away from home. And it's
easy to see why. With beautiful woodwork and architecture, the famous hotel
exudes class. Even if you don't stay there, it's well worth the visit to one of
the Del’s top-notch restaurants. We couldn’t resist having breakfast on the
outside patio overlooking the beach, eating while we watched the waves roll in.
The white-sand coastline behind
the Del is one of Coronado’s three fine beaches and 18 parks. Since the island
boasts a mild climate (average temperatures hover around 70 degrees), most
locals and visitors spend a great deal of time outside.
Coronado claims to be a
“year-round” playground, and that’s an accurate boast. Sailboats surround the
island (several resorts are right next to the docks), and fishing is a popular
activity. The Municipal Golf course is open to all, but you must have a military
I.D. to play at the Sea ‘N Air Gold Course at the Naval Air Station. Cyclists
can make use of the 15 miles of bike paths, while others (like me) simply relax
on the sand and watch it all going on.
Downtown Coronado is small but
upscale. Shops line the main streets and are easily accessible by trolley or
shuttles from major shopping areas. Town merchants cooperate several times a
year to put on community events, such as the “Motorcars and Music on MainStreet”
in April and “Downtown Goes Ghostly” on Halloween.
Coronado’s community enjoys
small-town events. On the Fourth of July, the town hosts a parade that includes
fireworks and a Navy sea, air, and land demonstration. Last April, Coronado
celebrated the 77th anniversary of their annual Flower Show, the
largest flower show under one roof. And in October, there is an annual
Chrysler-Jeep speed festival where antique roadsters race on a 1.6-mile course.
Christmas is a big deal on the
island. The month-long celebration is both traditional and festive. On the 1st
Friday in December, a Christmas parade winds its way through town and Santa
arrives via ferry. The hotels and main street are lit up with lights, and
several tree-lightings are held.
The locals enjoy more than 65
restaurants on the 13.5-mile peninsula. From crowded local diners to top-notch
gourmet restaurants, there are options to suit anyone’s taste. (The diners are a
great place for tasty inexpensive food and interesting local culture.)
If you’re into the historical
aspect of the area, the Museum of History and Art recently reopened in a brand
new location on 10th Street. The Historical Association has taken
great pains to preserve their heritage, and have designed a walking-tour of the
town to show it off.
Not to be outdone by neighborhood
arts offerings in San Diego, Coronado boasts California’s only year-round
professional repertory company. The Lamb’s Player’s Theatre is a non-profit
performing arts organization located on Orange Avenue. You can call for an
updated listing of shows.
With its temperate climate
and year-round activities, Coronado is a destination for all seasons. And
although it’s not the tropical paradise of some Caribbean locales, I couldn’t
resist the charm of this “would-be” island. Best of all, all I had to do was
cross a two-mile bridge from the mainland to get there.
For more information: Contact
the Coronado Visitors Bureau at:
www.coronadohistory.org/visitorcenter
or call (619) 437-8788.
Bridge Photo
by Doug Musolf, Other photos courtesy Coronado Visitors Center.
© Janna Graber 2001, updated
2002