The Past in the Present
Discovering the Real Vienna
By Janna Graber
Summer mornings in Vienna are a treasure all
their own. The air is filled with the smell of baking bread and rich
coffee. Colorful flowers fill the window boxes that adorn each
building, offering a stark contrast to the gray of the cobble-stoned
streets. The narrow sidewalks slowly fill with varied pedestrians:
Shopkeepers fishing keys from their pockets to open tiny shops,
businessmen hurrying to the office, children playing a game of tag.
These are all scenes I have often seen before,
but still I watch them in wonder. Vienna has cast its spell, and once
again, I’m a victim.
Like most European
capitals, Vienna, Austria is a curious mixture of modern technology
and old-world charm. But there all similarities end, for Vienna has a
nature all its own. Though now an international center for the United
Nations, Vienna is a city that lives the present in the past, clinging
to long-gone imperial roots.
 Vienna is well
known as the city of music, and for its famous coffeehouse culture,
but most visitors forget the town’s royal past. Yet it’s from this
unique viewpoint that Vienna is best understood. For nearly 640
years, Vienna served as the heart of the mighty Austro-Hungarian
Empire. The ruling family, the Habsburgs, stretched the fingers of
their rule from Austria to Hungary, and even into what is now the
Czech Republic. The royal family built beautiful palaces; ordered
court composers (like Mozart) to write dramatic music; and ate the
royal pastries that were invented just for them.
When the empire fell after World War I, the
remnants of this imperial past remained as part of Vienna’s culture.
You can find this past alive and well in Vienna today. Just scratch
below the surface, and you’ll discover it for yourself. Don’t be
afraid to ask questions. The Viennese speak a “sing-songy” dialect of
German, but most people can speak some English.
 St.
Stephen’s Cathedral has often been called the heart of Vienna, and
it’s there that I always go first. Rebuilt during the 13th
– 15th century, the Gothic church has a steeple 370 feet
tall. If you take the winding stairs to the top, you have an
incredible view of the entire city. Be sure to look on the outside
walls of the church for remnants of the building’s varied past – a
round circle which measured loaves of bread for the local bakers, and
the number “05" etched into the stone wall for an Austrian underground
resistance group during World War II.
The image of St. Stephen’s reflects in the
hundreds of mirrored windows in the modern Haas Haus right
across the Town Square. The combination of today’s architecture next
to a centuries-old cathedral demonstrates the constant conflict
between old and new in this city. The Haas Haus, a three-story
restaurant and café, offers the best in fine Austrian dining. But
don’t let your dining experiences end there. Venture out to some of
the local favorites, like Esterhazykeller on the Naglergasse,
which offers typical favorites like tender veal schnitzel and roasted
basil potatoes. The local Würstel (sausage) stands are often a
good bet when you’re out sightseeing. You can grab a hearty sausage
and thick slice of fresh bread for only a few Schillings.
Almost every stand and restaurant carries a large variety of beers,
the local drink of choice.
 Austria
also produces some of the world’s best wines, and these can be sampled
at the local Heurige, rustic gardens where wines and foods are
served. Most of these garden-style restaurants are located on the
outskirts of town, in an area called Grinzing. Each garden
restaurant offers its own “New Wine,” with Austrian folk music played
in the background.
My personal weakness is the pastry shops. The
Konditorei, as they are called, offer some of the most heavenly
desserts I’ve ever seen. Viennese bakers have perfected the art of
layered cakes. The most famous cake in Vienna is the copyrighted
Sacher Torte — named for the Hotel Sacher where the cake was
invented. This delectable chocolate cake is worth a sample, but be
careful; it’s very rich!
The Konditorei aren’t the only places
you’ll find delicious pastries. The romantic coffeehouse culture is
still thriving in Vienna. These Cafés are not just a place for
coffee and a pastry; they are an entire institution. Some say that
the coffeehouses are the “living rooms” of Vienna, where the people
love to be. Coffeehouses range from the incredibly elegant (such as
Café Central) to the everyday. But all serve their fair with a touch
of class. Don’t take it personally if the tuxedo-clad waiter seems a
bit aloof. The Viennese tend to carry this royal, melancholy air in
everything they do. There can be something appealing about this –
after you get used to it.
The Viennese have a blessed daily tradition,
which I heartily take part in, called “Jause.” The word means
“snack,” and most Viennese take a daily break in the afternoon for a
dark cup of coffee and a slice of cake. If you’d like to take
advantage of this relaxing custom, head to the exquisite Café Demel,
located in the 1st district on Kohlmarkt Street. The vast
array of pastries and coffees at Café Demel is (literally) fit for a
king.
When the royals of the past weren’t sampling the
sweets at Café Demel, they were reclining in one of their numerous
palaces. The Imperial Palace, the Hofburg, is surrounded by some of
Vienna’s quaint town squares. The Hofburg houses most of the Habsburg
treasures, and is home to the famous White Stallions of the Spanish
Riding School. Tours are available throughout the day.
Schönbrunn Palace, the summer home of the
Habsburgs, is only a short tram ride away from the Hofburg. This
palace has over 1400 rooms, and was certainly large enough for the 16
children of Maria Theresia, one of the last Empresses. The palace
gardens are even more impressive than the ornate rooms of Schönbrunn.
Pruned shrubbery winds in complex mazes along the numerous sculptures,
fountains and colorful flowers that fill the gardens. Feel free to
wander the gardens at leisure. It’s an excellent place to take a
needed break while sightseeing.
If ever there was a city of music, Vienna is it.
Many of the world’s greatest composers have called this city home.
Schubert was born in Vienna 200 years ago, and Mozart, Haydn, Brahms,
and Beethoven moved to Vienna later in their lives. Classical music
is a household staple for the Viennese, and every good Austrian learns
how to waltz at a young age. During the summer, the city hosts free
open-air concerts in front of the Rathaus (City Hall), and in many
parks. Other worthwhile cultural options to visit include the State
Opera House (contact the tourist office for a schedule), and the
Vienna English Theatre.
The most well known cultural attraction is the
Vienna Boys’ Choir. They perform each Sunday (except in June-August)
at a mass at the Burgkapelle in the Hofburg Palace. Call the tourist
office about reserving tickets before you go.
Probably the best way to experience Vienna is to
take your time. Stop for a morning cup of coffee at a local
coffeehouse, and linger over the paper. Then wander through the
narrow streets, browsing the small shops this city still loves.
The Viennese treasure a slow pace, and take
pleasure in the small and enjoyable things in life. When you’re in
Vienna, try to follow their example. If you do, you may just find
that Vienna has cast its spell on you too.
Don’t Miss These!
The Vienna Woods (Wienerwald) – The Woods
are on the hills on the outskirts of Vienna. They are a quiet and
lovely place to hike, and offer a clear view of the entire city.
The United Nations buildings (Uno-City)
are right along the Danube River. English tour guides are available.
The Ring (Ringstraße) – A circular street that
encloses the inner city. Most of the important buildings in Vienna
are along the ring. The best way to see this street is to walk it, or
take trams #1 or #2.
The Danube River – River boat dining, and river
cruises are available.
Naschmarkt – An open air market with numerous
food and merchandise vendors.
Resources:
Austrian National Tourist Office
New York, NY 10108
Phone: 212-944-6880
Official Austrian Tourism Web Site
http://www.austria-tourism.at/us
Vienna Tourism:
http://info.wien.at |
