Feature Article

A Capital Journey Down Under

Canberra is the perfect place to celebrate Australia's Centennial     

by Janna Graber

"You must be from the States," the saleswoman said as I fumbled with my unfamiliar Australian coins,  trying to figure out which one was the 20-cent piece I needed. "No worries, love," she said, waving away my concern with a smile. "Same happens to me when I'm in America."

The Australians, I've found, are quite a nice lot to be around. Their friendly and easygoing manner is comfortable-and familiar. After all, our countries both share similar British roots. (True, there is that bit about English convicts being Australia's first Anglo settlers, but it's best not to bring that up.) One difference, though, is how the two countries gained their independence: America had to fight for hers, while Australia simply asked for it.

Just over one hundred years ago, there was no country called "Australia." The land down under was home to Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander natives and a small but growing group of newcomers who had arrived on ships from Britain. These new arrivals considered themselves British subjects, and they set up colonies with names like New South Wales and Queensland. While the colonists enjoyed their relationship with Britain, they needed the protection and cooperation of a formal federation.

With a simple vote in 1901, six colonies decided to create the Commonwealth of Australia. The British, for their part, were cooperative, passing a special act that allowed Australia's new status.

Although Oz (as Australians refer to their homeland) still has an unusual tie to Great Britain that few Americans understand (and believe me, I've tried), for all intents and purposes, they are on their own.

This year, Australia is celebrating its "Centenary of Federation," and nowhere else is that hundredth anniversary so properly celebrated as in Canberra (pronounced Can-bra), the country's capital city.

Canberra is often overlooked, especially in the limelight of Sydney's tremendous success hosting the 2000 Olympic Games. But this small city of 310,000, located just a three-hour drive south of Sydney, is well worth the visit.

Though Canberra may seem like a quiet, unassuming town where nothing much happens, don't be fooled. This is the city that runs Australia-where decisions are made, military strategies are planned and treasures are stored.

Like Washington, D.C., the capital down under is located in its own region-the Australian Capital Territory. Canberra is clean and safe. And because it's an hour's drive from the east coast, the climate is pleasant and has four distinct seasons. This was one of the reasons the city's location was chosen. The Minister for Home Affairs at the time, an American-born gent named King O'Malley, was quoted as saying: "I want to have a climate where men can hope. We cannot have hope in hot countries."

A competition to design the new city was won by an American architect, Walter Burley Griffin, in 1911. The lake that divides the city today is named for him. With miles of green grass and tree-lined streets, the city has a park-like feel to it. Although Canberra has a bus system, the best way to get around is by car.

It's obvious from first glance that the city is masterfully planned, but such careful design can sometimes be confusing. Unlike most cities where businesses dot almost every street, shopping centers and gas stations in Canberra are restricted to certain parts of town. Rather than drive around hoping to come upon a store or service station, it's best to ask someone for the nearest location. Otherwise, you could be driving in circles for hours. I speak from experience on this.

Not that the drive is unpleasant; there is plenty to see. Canberra has an international feel to it because more than 70 countries have official embassies here. It's fun to drive down the embassy rows and guess the home country of each building simply by its design.

There is no lack of things to do in Canberra, either. In the National Triangle, an area surrounding Lake Burley Griffin and the Parliament House, there are more than 10 important national institutions to visit. Many of them charge no entry fee.

The Australian War memorial does an excellent job of documenting the country's war experiences from World War I to Kuwait-experiences to which American visitors can relate. "Many Americans don't realize that we were fighting alongside them in World War II, Korea and Vietnam," the museum's tour guide noted. The memorial's highlights include a Japanese fighter plane and midget submarine.

The Parliament House, which is just 13 years old, is an impressive example of modern architecture. Home to Australia's Federal Parliament, visitors can view both the House of Representatives Chamber and the Senate Chamber. The Old Parliament House, which was used from 1927 to 1988, is also worth a look. It was here that this nation of 18 million was built and her future determined.

Be sure to notice the "Aboriginal Tent Embassy" situated out front of the Old Parliament. Aboriginal Australians placed these temporary buildings here to symbolize their efforts to make the government recognize its past treatment of the indigenous population. It's interesting to note that this situation seems to have pricked the Australian conscience. Many here commemorate this history with a "National Sorry Day" held in May.

The National Museum of Australia, which opened in March 2001 after years of planning, is the country's latest pride and joy. As Australia's version of the Smithsonian, the National Museum has the heady task of telling the

stories of the Australian people, from their achievements to their emotions. Using the latest technology, the exhibits not only preserve the memory of a nation, but forge into the future as well. The result is an educational "must-see" for visitors to the area.

Other top local draws include the National Gallery of Australia, which houses a permanent collection of over 100,000 works, and Questacon, the National Science and Technology Center. Designed for families, the center offers more than 20 interactive exhibits.

You could spend a week in Canberra and never see all of the national treasures that are gathered here, so you will cer-tainly be able to find something that piques your interest.

In addition to world-class museums, the Australian Capital Territory is renowned for its wines. Canberra's cool, dry autumns allow the grapes to fully ripen, producing award-winning vintages. If you'd like someone else to drive you on a roundabout tour of the area's wineries, contact National Capital Wine Tours. Otherwise, visit one of Canberra's 20 wine makers on your own. Keep in mind that some request that you phone ahead for an appointment.

If eating out is on your list of things to enjoy in Canberra, you won't be disappointed. Fortunately, Australia is a growing, multicultural society. No longer is the local diet restricted to bland meat pies, roasts and sausages. Canberra has more than 300 restaurants from which to choose, offering tasty seafood, to French cuisine. One of my favorites is the Lakeview Restaurant, a Chinese establishment in an area of Canberra called Tuggeranong. Their Peking honey shredded beef dish is excellent.

If you'd like to get out and enjoy nature, you're in luck. Canberra is located in the middle of the "bush," what the Aussies call any land that is not developed. If you'd like to try bushwalking to view some of the local wildlife, drive to the Tidbinbilla Nature Reserve, just outside of town. From marked trails, you can view exotic birds, elusive koalas (you need to have sharp eyes to see them) and the ever-popular kangaroos. Take a picnic and relax awhile. Sitting in the middle of a green eucalyptus forest listening to a loud chorus of birds can be quite an experience. And if you sit long enough, you may find yourself being observed by curious red kangaroos.

To get the ultimate view of Canberra, take an early morning balloon flight over the National City. Dawn Drifters is one such company that offers an entertaining ride and then a champagne breakfast afterward. It's a rare thing to be able to drift over a nation's capital building. Here in Canberra, you can do just that.

While you're in Australia, try picking up a little Ozspeak for fun. The key to deciphering Australian English is understanding their genuine love of inventing words. They often shorten perfectly good ones (example: a postman is a postie) or make up their own versions instead. To do this, Australians use an inexplicable method of making words out of things that rhyme. A sepo, for example, is an American. How is that accomplished? It starts with yank, which rhymes with tank-as in septic tank. Then septic is shortened to sepo. Sepo equals American.

I know. I don't see the logic either. And I'm not so sure I like being referred to as a septic tank, although I'm told it's a term of endearment. Nevertheless, Australian English is entertaining, and it's great fun to converse with the people you meet in your journeys. Don't be surprised, though, if you have to ask for a translation or two. After time spent in Australia, that "down-under lingo" begins to sound quite familiar and even logical. I found that it was still on my mind when I eventually returned home to the States.

"Thanks heaps!" I told the ticket agent at LAX airport, who gave me a strange look.

"I was in Australia," I added quickly, hoping that would explain things. "Ah・" she said, nodding with understanding. "Was it worth that long flight?"

"Absolutely," I replied. And I meant it.

Janna Graber is a freelance journalist and Colorado native who enjoys trekking around the world. She admits to falling completely in love with the land down under.

Life's a Beach

No visit to Australia would be complete without a trip to the shore. Head to Jervis Bay, which boasts the "cleanest water and whitest sand" in the country. The bay, locals claim, has beaches strung around it like a "string of pearls." The waters are home to four pods of dolphins that often play around the boats that venture near them.

To get to Jervis Bay from Canberra, take King's Highway east to Bateman's Bay, and then go north on Princess Highway to Jervis Bay.

Once you reach Jervis Bay, you'll have your pick of numerous beaches. The coastal village of Huskisson (pop. 880) has its history in boat building and fishing. There is a small shopping area and several nice places to stay-all within a short walk of the beaches. If Huskisson is booked, try the bayside towns of Callala Beach, Myola, Vincentia or Hyams Beach.

Like most beach communities, the area offers activities for the adventurous-from cruises and scuba diving to sailing and fishing.

The nearby Booderee National Park is jointly managed by the Wreck Bay Aboriginal Community and Environment Australia. Booderee is an Aboriginal word that means "plenty of fish." There are several popular beaches in the park, including Greenpatch and Scottish Rocks. Marked hiking trails are an easy walk and allow you to view local wildlife. For information on the park, see www.booderee.np.gov.au.

For more information on Jervis Bay, check out www.shoalhaven.nsw.gov.au.

if you go

How to get there
You can fly to Canberra via Sydney, or rent a car and make the three-hour journey on your own. It's an easy drive and the countryside is beautiful.

Help in planning
For airline, hotel and rental car reservations, contact your AAA travel professional.

Further information
Australia: www.australia.com
Canberra: www.canberratourism.com.au or www.canberra.citysearch.com.au