When in Oz, visiting Canberra is a capital idea

By Janna Graber

Special to the Tribune

September 16, 2001

CANBERRA, Australia -- "You must be from the States," the saleswoman said as I fumbled with my unfamiliar Australian coins, trying to figure out which one was the 20-cent piece I needed. "No worries, love," she said, waving away my concern with a smile. "Same happens to me when I'm in America."

The Australians, I've found, are quite a nice lot to be around. Their friendly and easy-going manner is comfortable--and familiar. After all, our countries both share similar British roots. One difference, though, is how the two countries gained their independence: America had to fight for hers, while Australia simply asked for it.

Just over a hundred years ago, there was no country called Australia. The folks who lived in the land Down Under were British subjects who lived in colonies with names like New South Wales and Queensland. While the colonists enjoyed their relationship with Britain, they needed the protection and cooperation of a formal federation.

With a simple vote in 1901, six colonies decided to create the Commonwealth of Australia. The British, for their part, were quite cooperative, passing a special act that allowed Australia's new status.

Although Oz (as Australians refer to their homeland) still has an unusual tie to Great Britain that few Americans can understand (and believe me, I've tried), for all intents and purposes, they are on their own.

This year, Australia is celebrating its "Centenary of Federation." And nowhere else is that hundredth anniversary so properly celebrated as in Canberra (pronounced Can-bra), the country's capital city.

Canberra is often overlooked, especially in the limelight of Sydney's tremendous success hosting the 2000 Olympic Games. But this city of 310,000, located just a three-hour drive south of Sydney, is well worth the visit.

Though Canberra may seem like a quiet, unassuming town where nothing much happens, don't be fooled. This is the city that runs Australia--where decisions are made, military strategies are planned and treasures are stored.

The capital Down Under is located in its own region--the Australian Capital Territory. Canberra is clean and safe. And because it's an hour's drive from the east coast, the climate is pleasant and has four distinct seasons. This was one of the reasons the city's location was chosen. The minister for Home Affairs at the time, an American-born gent named King O'Malley, was quoted as saying, "I want to have a climate where men can hope. We cannot have hope in hot countries."

A competition to design the new city was won by a Chicago architect, Walter Burley Griffin, in 1911. The lake that divides the city today is named for him. With miles of green grass and tree-lined streets, the city has a park-like feel to it. Although Canberra does have a bus system, the best way to get around is by car.

It's obvious from first glance that the city is masterfully planned, but such careful design can sometimes be confusing. Unlike most cities where businesses dot almost every street, shopping centers and gas stations in Canberra are restricted to certain parts of town. Rather than drive around just hoping to come upon a store or station, it's best to ask someone for the nearest location. Otherwise, you could be driving in circles for hours. I speak from experience.

Not that the drive is unpleasant. There is quite a lot to see. Canberra has an international feel to it because more than 70 countries have official embassies here. It's fun to drive down the embassy rows and guess the home country of each building simply by its design.

There is no lack of things to do in Canberra either. In the National Triangle, an area surrounding Lake Burley Griffin and the Parliament House, there are more than 10 important national institutions to visit. Many of them charge no entry fee.

The Australian War Memorial does an excellent job of documenting the country's war experiences from World War I to Kuwait--experiences American visitors can relate to.

"Many Americans don't realize that we were fighting alongside them in World War II, Korea and Vietnam," the museum's tour guide noted. The memorial's highlights include a Japanese fighter plane and midget sub.

The Parliament House, which is just 13 years old, is an impressive example of modern architecture. It's home to Australia's Federal Parliament, and visitors can view both the House of Representatives Chamber and the Senate Chamber. The Old Parliament House, which was used from 1927 to 1988, is also worth a look. It was here that this nation of 18 million was built and her future determined.

Be sure to notice the "Aboriginal Tent Embassy" situated out front of the Old Parliament. Aboriginal Australians placed these temporary buildings here to symbolize their efforts to make the government recognize its past treatment of the indigenous population. It's interesting to note that this situation seems to have pricked the Australian conscience. Many here commemorate this history with a "National Sorry Day" held each year.

The National Museum of Australia, which opened in March 2001 after years of planning, is the country's latest pride and joy. As Australia's version of the Smithsonian, the National Museum has the heady task of telling the stories of the Australian people, from their achievements to their emotions. Using the latest technology, the exhibits not only preserve the memory of a nation, but forge into the future as well. The result is an educational "must-see" for visitors to the area.

Other top local draws include the National Gallery of Australia, which houses a permanent collection of more than 100,000 works, and Questacon, the National Science and Technology Center. Designed for families, the center offers more than 20 interactive exhibits.

You could spend a week in Canberra and never see all of the national treasures gathered here, so you will certainly be able to find something that piques your interest.

The Australian Capital Territory is renowned for its wines. Canberra's cool, dry autumns allow the grapes to fully ripen, producing award-winning vintages. If you'd like someone else to drive you on a roundabout tour of the area's wineries, contact National Capital Wine Tours. Otherwise, visit one of Canberra's 20 wine makers on your own. Keep in mind that some request you phone ahead for an appointment.

If eating out is on your list of things to enjoy in Canberra, you won't be disappointed. Fortunately, Australia is a growing, multi-cultural society. No longer is the local diet restricted to bland meat pies, roasts and sausages. Canberra has more than 300 restaurants to choose from, ranging from tasty seafood to French cuisine. One of my favorites is the Lakeview Restaurant, a Chinese establishment in an area of Canberra called Tuggeranong. Their Peking honey shredded beef dish is excellent.

If you'd like to get out and enjoy nature, you're in luck. Canberra is located in the middle of the "bush," which is what the Aussies call any land that is not developed.

If you'd like to try bushwalking to view some of the local wildlife, drive to the Tidbinbilla Nature Reserve, which is just outside of town. From marked trails, you can view exotic birds, elusive koalas (you need sharp eyes to see them) and the ever-popular kangaroos.

Take a picnic and relax a while. Sitting in the middle of a green eucalyptus forest listening to a loud chorus of birds can be quite an experience. And if you sit long enough, you may find yourself being observed by curious red kangaroos.

To get the ultimate view of Canberra, take an early morning balloon flight over the National City. Dawn Drifters is one such company that offers an entertaining ride and then a champagne breakfast afterward. It's a rare thing to be able to drift over a nation's capital building. Here in Canberra, you can do just that.