COLORADO'S great divide

By Janna Graber
Special To The Post-Dispatch

The chic resorts in Aspen and Vail are nice places to ski, but Colorado has another, more affordable side.  A lifelong resident discloses a few state secrets.

There are, in my mind, two sides to my native state of Colorado. There is the Colorado I was born in, which is friendly, down-to-earth, in love with the outdoors, filled with the gorgeous scenery of the Rocky Mountains and, most of all, bargain-conscious.

And there is the Colorado that the rest of the world knows.

This "other" Colorado, found in chic ski towns such as Vail, Aspen and Telluride, is full of world-class resorts, Hollywood stars, expensive restaurants and, of course, gorgeous scenery.

This highly advertised version of my home state is lovely and well worth the visit. But it can be expensive. Sure, there is a lot to see and experience in places such as Aspen and Vail, but if that's all you saw on your visit to Colorado's ski slopes, you would be missing out -- and your wallet would feel a lot lighter.

A whole other Colorado is waiting to be discovered.

First, though, here are some things you should know about your skiing vacation.

You'll be flying into Denver International Airport, which is, without question, one of the country's most beautiful airports. But don't just rush out of the terminal, grab the first 4WD rental car you can find and head to the mountains. Instead, keep our elevation in mind. Denver is at a high altitude (it's not called the Mile-High City for nothing), but it's a lot lower than the 10,000-foot elevations at the ski resorts.

Every year, Colorado mountain clinics see hundreds of cases of altitude sickness. This malady is characterized by headache, fatigue and dizziness, and frankly, it is not a fun way to spend your holiday. Doctors recommend that you take a day or two to acclimate yourself to our thin air before heading up into the high country, so why not take a day or two to explore Denver?

Denver, the capital of Colorado, is the state's biggest city. Our lifestyle is a curious blend of the state's Western roots, easy-going manner and love of the outdoors. The metro area has more than 2.5 million residents, so you're likely to find whatever suits your fancy. The population is young and sporty, and the streets are wide and clean. You'll have no problem getting around in that 4WD you've rented.

Although the region is known for its great skiing, few know that Denver receives more than 300 days of sunshine each year. So chances are, the sun will be shining in a deep-blue Colorado sky during your visit. The hottest spot in town is LoDo (lower downtown). You'll find the place hopping with micro-breweries, cafes, restaurants and pubs. My favorite place for people-watching is The Market on Larimer Street. All types of folks go there for coffee and dessert.

After a day or two in Denver, your body is ready to head to the slopes.

We have more than 20 ways to describe our snow, with most having something to do with powder, and ski conditions are tracked religiously. (FYI: Champagne powder is the creme de la creme of snow conditions.) You can check daily ski conditions at www.discovercolorado.com/snorep.

If you'd like to stay in Denver and ski during the day, you can take the Winter Park Ski Train for $45 roundtrip. The train takes you on a two-hour ride through postcard-perfect country to the ski resort of Winter Park, where you're dropped at the base of the ski slopes. At the end of the day, simply hop back on for the ride back to Denver. Amtrak also has daily runs from Denver to Fraser and Granby (near Winter Park) on the California-Zephyr.

Winter Park is one of the most popular resorts with locals. Owned by the city and county of Denver, the park offers 2,886 acres of skiable acreage, including 134 designated trails. If Winter Park is crowded, ski over to Mary Jane, which is included in the price of your Winter Park ticket. This mountain, named for a popular "lady of the evening" who lived in the area a century ago, rarely has long lift lines and offers excellent skiing for those above beginner levels.

Accommodations are easy to find in Winter Park and in the nearby towns of Granby and Fraser, where the rates are even better. If you tire of skiing, there is a lot to do there. Try snow tubing at the Fraser Tubing Hill or go to Grand Adventures, which offers dog-sledding, snowmobiling and horse-drawn sleigh rides. King Mountain Ranch, a dude ranch in nearby Granby, offers sleigh rides, winter horseback riding, tubing, cross-country skiing and excellent dinners, as well as a great place to stay.

By the way, you don't have to pay the listed retail price for ski-lift tickets. Instead, buy discount lift tickets for many resorts in Denver at stores such as King Soopers grocers or ski outfitter Christy's Sports. If you forget to buy the lift tickets before you head into the high country, stop at Breeze Ski Rental in the minuscule town of Dumont, just off of Interstate 70. Another tip: The Conoco gas station next door to Breeze Ski Rental sells coffee for 25 cents. Who can pass that up?

Discounted lift tickets cost anywhere from $25 to $45, depending on the time of year. Children are less expensive, of course. And during the spring months of March and April, children sometimes ski free. Check the Web site of each resort for details.

Among other popular resorts with Coloradans are Copper Mountain, Breckenridge, Keystone and Arapahoe Basin. All four world-class resorts are within two hours of Denver and charge roughly the same for a lift ticket. Loveland Ski Resort, the nearest resort to Denver, is less expensive than the others, but on stormy days the wind can be quite strong there.

If you're willing to drive farther and would like to save a few dollars, try Ski Cooper or Sunlight Valley. Ski Cooper bills itself as the friendliest and "most affordable family ski resort." Situated 100 miles from Denver in the San Isabel National Forest, Ski Cooper is a good option for those who want to escape the crowds. You can stay in the nearby former mining town of Leadville, which is an experience all its own.

Sunlight Mountain Resort may not be huge, but it's very affordable ($20-$30). Best of all, it's near the town of Glenwood Springs. Coloradans flock to this mountain town year-round to soak in the large natural hot springs. The accommodation options in Glenwood are not on the high end, but the hot springs make up for the lack of luxury. There is something wonderful about sitting in a steaming spring at night, watching the snow flakes fall. What better way to relax after a hard day of skiing?

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If you go

Helpful Web sites: www.coloradoskicountry.com, www.colorado.com, www.denver.org, www.winterpark-info.com

Grand Adventures in Winter Park: 1-800-726-9247, www.grandadventures.com

Fraser Tubing Hill: 1-970-726-5954

King Mountain Ranch: 1-800-476-5464, www.kingmountainranch.com

To avoid high-altitude sickness: Take time to acclimate at lower elevations before heading to the high country; drink lots of water (dehydration occurs quickly at high elevations); eat foods high in carbohydrates; take it easy the first few days. If you have symptoms of high-altitude sickness, go to lower elevation for several days to acclimate.