Canoeing the Canyons

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from 5280 Magazine, June/July 2003; reprinted in the Memphis Commercial Appeal
 

Canoeing the Canyons

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Photographs by Janna Graber

The remote stretch of the Colorado River between Fruita, Colo., and Westwater, Utah, runs through steep-walled canyons, sandstone cliffs, and past petroglyphs left by early Native American visitors

This Colorado native doesn't spend her weekends bagging fourteeners or backpacking through the wilderness. Content to experience Colorado via canoe, our writer seeks a calmer, gentler adventure.

Colorado was built for people who love the outdoors.

With almost 300 sunny days a year and some of the best scenery in the country, it's the perfect place for adventure lovers.

But there are some of us, dare I admit it, who would rather read a book than climb a mountain, or watch a play instead of hiking a national park.

Having spent most of my life in this select group of "watchers" rather than "doers," I was pretty sure that a "Colorado adventure" vacation wasn't my thing. Still, there had to be "something" to the adventure craze that sends so many people to explore the Centennial state each year.

I decided that it was high time to find out: I wanted to see the Colorado that few have seen; experience the Rockies from a completely different point of view.

A canoe seemed to provide the answer.

You don't have to brave Class 4 rapids to see some of this region's most remote river country. The 31-mile stretch of the Colorado River between Fruita, Colo., and West water, Utah, runs through steep-walled canyons, sandstone cliffs, and past ancient petroglyphs.

While droughts may lower water levels, the mighty Colorado flows on. And unlike river rafts, a canoe needs only 6 inches of water to maneuver, so canoeing is possible when other water sports are not.

The best way to kick-start my canoeing career, it seemed, was to learn from the professionals. Based in Denver, Centennial Canoe Outfitters have been guiding trips down Colorado rivers since 1985. Even better, they provide all the canoe equipment, as well as gourmet cookouts along the way. Their three-day canoe/camping trip down the Colorado River seemed perfect for someone who wanted adventure but wasn't quite sure how to do it.

The sun was just peeking over the horizon when we put in our canoes from Rim Rock Ranch in Fruita, which is 30 minutes from Grand Junction on Colorado's western slope. After a brief paddling demonstration from Mike Wymore, our fearless river guide, our group of 11 canoes floated free in the water.

Many of the others - a diverse group from all walks of life - had canoed for years. They grinned as they soared down the river, not even looking back.

Although it took a bit of practice to get the rhythm of paddling down, canoeing is easy to learn. Within minutes we had floated into the red-walled canyons, alone with the natural wonders of western Colorado.

Wild turkeys cavorted in the nearby river grasses, while bald eagles soared overhead. The only sounds were the soft lullaby of the river, the dipping paddles pushing the canoes ahead, and the occasional scream of a group member being blasted by a water gun.

All the gear we needed, including the super-duper water shooter hidden beneath the seat, was carried in our canoe. Our tent, clothes and sleeping bags were bundled tightly in waterproof bags, while water jugs sat up front.

One of the river guides carried the group's food, wine and portable kitchen; the other carried the highly coveted "tented groover," the latest in portable camping toilets, and other necessary gear.

One benefit of canoeing with a guide is that they know the best spots to stop along the river. Shade trees are a rarity here, but they are worth gold during a hot Colorado summer.

Within minutes of pulling up for lunch at one such shaded area, our trusty guides had river fare on the grill, while the rest of us sat around and talked.

"This is the life," said a lawyer from Denver, kicking back to relax.

"It's good to go with a guide like this," a visiting teacher noted. "It gives you a chance to learn how to paddle and read the river, then you can come back later on your own."

Guide Dave Sigrist offered his viewpoint: "I enjoy the people, and the river - the sounds, the smells. You bring your worries with you, but you soon forget them."

Back on the water that afternoon, we paddled at a leisurely pace; just enough to push ourselves, but not too fast to enjoy the views.

We made camp early, providing plenty of time for hiking or reading before dinner. Then after a hearty meal, we headed down to the river banks.

Centennial offers "theme" trips, like 'women only', 'bike and canoe,' or geology trips. This was the 'star-gazing' trip, and astronomer Tito Salas had joined us. Lying on the river banks beneath a canopy of stars, we gazed into the dark heavens as Tito pointed out constellations and told us stories of a world beyond our own.

The next day's hiking expedition was even better. After paddling all morning, we pulled up onshore and hiked into McDonald Canyon. The narrow trail meandered through red-walled passages, opening up into a natural amphitheater.

Small pictographs covered the walls, left behind by early Native American visitors, and the acoustics of the place meant that even a whisper could be heard. Our guides pulled out a guitar and an Indian flute. The soft strains of their ethereal music floated up and out of the canyon.

The rhythm of paddling seemed natural now, as we continued down the river that next afternoon. The heat was our only enemy, but there were remedies for that.

"Just point your feet downstream, and let yourself go," our guide said, demonstrating his "river-style" surfing technique. Sporting a life vest, he went to the middle of the river, found a rippling current and let go.

The ride bounced him up and over the waves, and the grin on his face persuaded others to follow.

"So this is the part of the Rockies that I've been missing all these years," I thought as I bounced along the river swells, peering up into a deep blue sky. "Well, better late than never," I decided, swimming back to shore, ready to try the adventure again.